Last month I had the pleasure of visiting a magical place. Though the Lonely Planet travel guide claims that “many people consider this the most beautiful spot in all Guatemala,” it is far enough off the tourist-trodden path that you don’t have to worry about your trip being tainted by the hordes. Thankfully, most visitors to the country find comfort in Antigua, Monterrico, Tikal, and Guatemala City.
Semuc Champey lies deep in the jungle forest of the Alta Verapaz region two hours east of bustling Coban. You can get there by microbus from Antigua in 6 hours for $55 round trip. You change vans in Lanquin, a small village near the famous Lanquin Caves. The final 10 klicks is on dirt road into canyons cut by the Rio Cahabon and filled (after harvest time) with the blue smoke of burning milpas. The river turns azure as it slides along a bed of natural limestone, its jungle-covered banks rising majestically a thousand feet on either side.
Though solo in-country, I reached Semuc along with a gaggle of backpacker-style travelers from Canada, Ireland, Germany, and England. As we neared the thatched huts of our “hotel,” we watched three bronzed boys throw themselves off a high bridge into the green river 80 feet below. It was humid here, but comfortable if you did absolutely nothing but lay in a hammock watching the river go by. We walked about in swimwear for two days, talking about life back in the “real world,” and drank Gallo beers under the thatched roof of the dining area of the Las Marias hotel. The hotel features a dorm and three “private” rooms in open-air thatched huts. I was there for two days and one night, drank constantly, ate huge, and when the bill came it was $22. That night, a farmer lost control of his burn and a 5-acre swath of jungle ignited, lighting up the sky as a crescent moon set behind the mountain. We watched in dumb amazement thankful that the river ran between us and the flames.
At dawn I awoke to my watch alarm and gathered my gear quietly so not to disturb my hut companions. In the dark I used a penlight to venture up the river to the entrance to the Semuc Champey park. I didn’t expect a guard to be on post that early, but there he was in the misty dark at the closed gate. The area would not open until 9am. Meanwhile, the mist was rising on the green pozas, or pools, and my photo opportunity was slipping away. I won’t mention how I gained entry into the park at dawn, but I will tell you that I had a true paradise to myself for three hours. The waterfalls cascade over the limestone and then the river flattens out in a series of cool green swimming holes that would make Huck Finn weep. The limbs of forest trees hang over the river and the limestone is smooth as marble. At first light I opted to climb a near vertical path to the famous viewpoint, called El Mirador. This became a serious endeavor as the humidity wore me down under 50 pounds of panoramic photo gear. Half way up and deep in the forest I ran into a Mayan family hiking down. I asked where the viewpoint was since the trail had become vague. They directed me east and headed south on another tiny trial, to their “casas” in the forest. Later, I followed this trial into dense stands of maize and jungle, but after 200 yards turned back realizing I may never be found if I got lost.
After shooting some large-format stuff at the top I hobbled down 1,000 feet and dove into a green pool. It was liquid crystal. Nobody in site. After a nap, half submerged in the water, a throng of locals showed up and I photographed them frolicking with their kids. It was 9am and the park had opened. Back at my hut, the folks from Seattle and London were just getting up, and looked at me like I was from another planet. “Where have you been?”
Paradise Found.
